HMS Pegasus modelshinedown attention attention

Skip, I just found your log and will follow (literally) your build. In the photo - The overall length of the groove is 119.9 mm - it is hard to see the left end of the plank but it is pulled out past the end of the jig for illustration. Worked out OK because I got the width I needed. No one has enjoyed this task.

Hi Spyglass - - Sorry for the missed attribution - I've just read so many build logs over the past month keeping all the various builders straight is not possible. Even the picture on the box cover shows some rather bizarre planking below the whale, just above the copper sheathing.

Came up with an easy way to soak planks - two feet of 1" PEX tubing with a cap on one end and a stopper in the top.

Didn't have much trouble doing the planking. When satisfied I fitted a dummy bowsprit and glued the front sections on. I have the strip at the top of the whale in place and now two strips along the keel on each side. After reading many build logs I decided to add balsa filler blocks at the bow and stern to make sure that the curves would be smooth and there would be plenty of gluing surface. I have now started planking the main deck using this method. I also tried using black thread as done by Doug Fell. It is a close-up of the grating and surrounding deck. You can see them in the "bow on" photo below about 1/3 of the way down from the keel. Ship Model Plans - HMS Pegasus H.M.S. The Swan class of 6th Rate sloops were unusually attractive for the class of vessel, with not only very sleek hull lines but also the unusual amount of decoration for the size of vessel. Not convinced? Again I benefitted from the many Pegasus and Fly blogs. After a lot of debate (with myself) and reading blogs I decided this was a good time to copper the hull; prior to installing the upper decks. No matter how well I tried to taper the planks at the bow, they became very small and did not lie flat at all. I do have the stem on now. but a huge amount disappaered with my last Fly build log in the "BIG CRASH" However when the glue dried I had bulges where it distorted the gunport strip. The distances between the various hatches would make it feasible for the carpenters to lay that section of decking with no "butts". The top one upright and the lower one on its side. The Sharpie was a disaster as the ink bleed into the planks very badly. if you have faired the forrard bulk head properly the strip will STILL be overlong and i usually find I need to take about 2 -3 mm of the front - which means remaking the bow sprit slot. Doing that really adds to the fun! See photos. You can find how to turn a bur on a card scraper by Googling "sharpening a cabinet scraper" takes a bit of practice but once you can do it it is a very useful tool. Not quite so lucky on the keel and will need to sand a bit there so the second planking will be flush with the keel when laid. They were built just before the Admiralty issued orders that all vessels (especially lesser rates) were to have the minimal amount of decoration and carvings to save any unnecessary costs, due to the ever continuing war with France and other nations. HMS Pegasus was one of 11 Pelorus-class protected cruisers ordered for the Royal Navy in 1893 under the Spencer Program and based on the earlier Pearl class. Great start SkipW - this is a really fantastic kit of a gorgeous ship. I soaked and formed the gunport strips after reading every blog I could find. Really nice quality. I've done several other models - the Revell Cutty Sark in the mid-60's and Model Shipways Rattlesnake in the 70's. Having the rabbet in the stem made forming the planks quite easy. Clearly I am obsessing about having a well faired hull prior to hull planking. The height of which I ended up setting from looking at a number of blogs. I also stopped the planks short of the stern post in the bearding area so that once sanded out the second planking will be flush. Please see below for shipping charges.Plans, Fretsaw Blades, Flags, Decals and Vinyl LetteringMaximum Postage (Wood Packs, Panels and Flammable Goods)Express Next Working Day & Nominated Delivery (Placed Before 2pm)Hobbies have built a reputation for providing first class goods and excellent service, with over 120 years of experience supplying model makers, machinists, craftsman & enthusiasts alike. They are so accurate that there is a left and right side to the plates, and there are no unseemly over protruding nail heads, everything is scaled at 1:64th.Accompanying the plans is a fully illustrated building manual, taking you through every stage of the critical hull construction. The screw in clamps from Micro-Mark worked great - I found that drilling a small pilot hole helped get them started and kept them from splitting the mdf. This was remedied with a Dremel with a small burr - cutting away the deck behind where it was too large. However looking at some blogs some guys seem to scribe the whale and use that as a guide for planking both down towards the keel and upward past the gun ports. I decided to fit all carriages with breeching ropes, not a big deal. It is more important than getting the wale spot on - you can always adjust plank widths for teh wale but that strip along the base of the. Not saying  fit them yet just start the soaking and bending you really can get them so they are almost an exact fit, you will have seen from the other logs that they need a bit of adjustment fore and aft but you can leave that trimming till later ( from your pics Iam not sure if you have fixed the stem yet - if not leave it off  for a bit its soo much easier to bend the gunport strips with it off.

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